Some of the tools I have made.
As everyone knows, our beloved bus's need a whole load of special tools to do certain things. I don't particularly like paying vast quantities of money on tools, especially when I can make some of them myself. So here's a selection.
First up, here's a dual purpose tool, designed to assist in the removal and fitting of both the flywheel glandnut and the dreaded rear hub castle nut.
This piece of kit is made up of a length of scaffold pole (well it was actually Spooky's tow bar), a piece of 1/4" steel plate (once used on VC10 engine stands) and a couple of rawl bolts.
The steel plate is welded to the scaffold pole and the scaffold pole is bolted to the floor of my workshop.
The flywheel is then bolted through strategically positioned holes to the plate. This means that the crankshaft/flywheel combination is firmly bolted to the garage floor and ain't going anywhere.
Doing this ensures that there is no unnecessary stress placed on the crankcase which is in essence free to rotate. However you will note the wooden packing under the case to take the weight of the engine and keep it at 90 degrees to the plate. I did buy the 46mm socket and the 3/4" breaker bar. Don't even think of attempting this with anything less, a 1/2 socket and bar will just break.
You will see here that there is a tube attached to the breaker bar (actually a VC10 jack handle, damn fine piece of kit) this, although not recommended by the manufacture and WILL void your warranty is essential to get enough umph to undo that puppy.
Also, here you can see a torque wrench attached to the jack handle, this allows me to apply the correct torque to the nut when tightening without the need for a 400 ftlb wrench!!. This has of course been calculated so the distance from the gland nut to the torque wrench drive is very precise.
When this tool is used for the rear hub, obviously the rear hub must come off the vehicle, but the same applies, the hub is bolted to the plate using the wheel studs.
If you ever need to remove the drop arm from the steering box you will very soon find out that you need some kind of monster tool. Ordinary 3 leg pullers either slip off or are not man enough to do the job.
What did I do?? make a tool. I made it from a couple of ball joint inners welded together so that there was no way they would spring apart. Even this was put to the test, the 1/4" plate that goes against the end of the steering box output shaft actually bent in the process of removal. Did the job though!!
When you need to turn the engine, it is very difficult to get a socket on the crankshaft pulley nut as ther is not enough clearance betwen the pulley and the tinware. The alternative is to use a ring spanner, but it needs to be a large one which doesn't generally come in the average tool kit. It's much better to use a socket so I made a simple tool out of a flat steel bar with a square drive welded on the end which allows the use of a socket.
This is a simple tool made from a flat bar with a large nut welded to the end, it fits nicely in the gearbox fill/drain plugs.
How many times have you scratched the nice finish on your wheels removing a hub cap with a screwdriver? I didn't want to do that so I made a tool to suit. I believe VW actually made a tool that did the same thing but I have never seen one.
It is just a lever that fits in the two holes found in the hub cap and levers against the tyre instaed of the wheel rim.