Taking the engine out
It was a fine sunny day and I decided that it was time for the engine and gearbox
to come out, Diane was a great help here and having two bodies in there certainly makes
things a lot easier.
I started be disconecting everything and removing as much stuff as I could from underneath. The start motor, heater flexy tubes, heat exchangers and exhaust pipe, there were of course no driveshafts in the way as they had been previously removed.
I will attempt to list the items that need to be disconnected and bolts that need to be removed in order to get the engine out.
Next we put the jack under the oil strainer plate with a piece of
wood to prevent damage and gently took the weight of the engine.
We then removed the two bolts on each end of the front engine bearer which allowed the bearer to remain attached to the engine and the rubber engine mounts remained attached to the chassis brackets.
Next the bellhousing fixings need to be removed, there are two at the top and two at the bottom.
Very important, the start motor utilises one of these bolts, looking from the back of the bus it is the one on the right hand side and consists of a bolt that has a shaped head to prevent it turning that goes through the start motor flange, bell housing and engine rear casing flange, the nut being behind the fan housing which means that you need four elbows to get in there, it's a bit fiddly but perseverence makes it give in.
The other top bolt is in a similar position but on the left hand
side of the engine and is just a bolt (no nut) and can be removed from the bell housing
The two lower fixings are studs that are fitted to the engine casing and go through the bell housing with nuts on the bell housing side, remove these two nuts.
At this point the engine is not attached to the gearbox or vehicle
which means that it should "just drop out", HA! luckily ours did but I have heard
nightmare stories about the engine not coming out.
give it a little wiggle to see if it is free, it needs to be moved backwards about 5 inches to clear the bell housing and gearbox input shaft and then gently lowered to the floor.
As far as I have seen, the worst thing that can happen (apart from the engine falling on your foot) is the flywheel glandnut bearing seizing onto the gearbox input shaft, this effectively means that the engine cannot be separated from the gearbox and I have not seen any foolproof method of doing it.
The only thing I could suggest would be to reattach the engine to the gearbox and remove them both together which will give more maneuverability on the floor (Suggestions invited).
The engine was temporarily stored in the back of the bus until I was ready to have it in the workshop.
Next it was the turn of the gearbox, dead easy, we put the jack underneath it, undid the gear change linkage, earth strap, clutch cable and finally the front and rear mounts and lowered it to the ground. Again it was stored in the back of the bus.
There was no reverse light switch on this bus which is a bit naughty really as there are clear lenses in the rear light cluster. I have bought a reverse light switch and have got hold of a couple of old bulb holders to install the reverse light function.
Fitting the engine and gearbox
Fitting the gearbox is a bit of a doddle and I managed this on my own.
One thing I did do though, was to manufacture a little cradle from scraps of timber for the gearbox so that it would sit on top of my little jack easily. The front of the gearbox is bolted to the torsion rod tube at the front by two bolts through a large chunk of metal that clamps the ends of the rubber mounted 'U' bar. The rear of the gearbox is mounted on the frame that goes over the front of the engine bay. The gearbox mount frame is bolted into this. It is attacjed with two bolts and four nylon washers.
Once the gearbox is fitted you can reconnect the reverse light switch wires (if fitted), or go about fitting one, it's relatively simple and kits are available from JustKampers.
Ok, now the engine. (Make sure your clutch is correctly aligned with a clutch alignment tool) I found that the engine was easy to install with the heat exchangers fitted but no exhaust or rear tinware. The tinware nearest the gearbox was fitted. I did not try to fit the engine seal before fitting the engine as it can be done with the engine in-situ.
With the engine in position on the floor, lift the rear of the bus and slide the engine into position. Lower the rear of the vehicle again. This can either be done on it's wheels or preferably on a set of axle stands as the vehicle does not move around.
Now, you're thinking, how the hell do I get that up on the jack.....well, you lift one side by hand and place a block of wood under the heat exchanger, then do the same on the other side, repeat until you can get the jack underneath. Now you can slowly lift the engine into position, the most important alignment is the bellhousing flange as it is quite tight. Carefully jiggle the engine around until the gearbox input shaft engages with the pilot bearing. You cannot see this it's a matter of feel. Carry on jiggling the engine from side to side and lifting the rear of the engine so that it will eventually drop into the bell-housing. While it is in this state fit one of the top bolts to stop it dropping out again. Fit the two bottom nuts, fit the rear engine mount and finally the start motor.
Now you can re-fit all wires, fuel line, throttle cable, clutch cable, heater tubes, exhaust, rear tinware and engine seal.
Ok, now fire it up.....when you are absolutely satisfied that you have not missed anything AND you have a fire extinguisher handy.